Chiang Mai for the Older Traveller

Staying out past San Kamphaeng

I have been coming to Thailand for a long time. In my 60s I have no wish for a beach town with music until 3am, or a city hotel on a busy road. Chiang Mai still brings me back for the temples, the food and the mountains, but the Old City is busy these days, so I stay out east, past San Kamphaeng.

A few months ago that meant Baanpong Lodge, in the Mae On / San Kamphaeng area about 30 km east of the city, in jungle and hill country a kilometre or so from the Huai Lan reservoir. I was after comfort, good food, privacy and a base for day trips, not luxury.

The lodge itself

Once the car turned off the main road, the traffic noise stopped. There are no tour buses and no tall buildings: a handful of private chalets and loft-style rooms among the trees, with firm beds and rain showers. Mine had a terrace. The staff were friendly without fussing. The first evening I sat on the terrace with a Singha and watched mist come off the jungle, with nothing to hear but cicadas and a distant dog.

Breakfast at the on-site restaurant is Thai dishes or eggs done how you like them, with decent coffee. Lunch and dinner there were mostly Thai for me — home-style curries, grilled fish and salads with flavour, not just heat — though there are Western dishes if you want a break. One night they had a barbecue on, and the ribs were some of the best I have had in the country.

Most mornings I took one of the lodge bicycles round the local lanes for half an hour, past rice fields and the odd water buffalo, then swam. The outdoor pool is a good size and kept clean, with enough room round it that you are not elbow to elbow. Other guests tend to be retirees, long-stay visitors and quiet couples; you can talk to them over a beer or keep to yourself.

Day trips nearby

Muang On Cave (Wat Tham Muang On) is five minutes down the road. The climb has stairs and handrails on the awkward parts and is manageable if you take it steadily. Inside are stalactites and Buddha images, and there is a viewpoint at the top. I went with a driver the lodge arranged and was back for lunch.

Further along the same road are the San Kamphaeng Hot Springs. You can soak your feet in the mineral water, watch people boiling eggs in the hot pools, or sit with a coffee. I spent a couple of hours there.

Golfers have Chiangmai Highlands close by, with green fees lower than at some courses nearer town.

The lodge can also arrange drives through the rice paddies and villages, and visits to temples that are not on the tour-bus routes. I did a half-day trip like that, and another afternoon a small Thai cooking class with ingredients from the market.

Chiang Mai city, for the temples and night markets, is a 40–50 minute drive. The lodge can book a private driver so you are not haggling over Grab or a songthaew at the end of the day.

There are elephant camps in the wider area. Read the reviews carefully and pick a small operation that has you watching the elephants rather than riding them; the lodge staff can tell you which ones they would use.

Practical notes

From Chiang Mai Airport: the drive takes about 45–60 minutes, depending on traffic. A private transfer booked through the lodge is the easiest option after a long flight; Grab and taxis work too.

When to come: November to February is the coolest and driest. March and April are hot but manageable if you take it slowly. The rainy season, roughly June to October, is greener and quieter, with heavy showers rather than all-day rain.

What to pack: light cotton shirts, walking shoes with good grip for the cave steps, a light jacket for cool evenings, mosquito repellent for dawn and dusk, sunscreen, and your prescriptions with a small first-aid kit. Laundry is available and cheap, so pack light.

Money: the lodge takes cards, but the smaller places nearby prefer baht, so carry some cash. There are ATMs in San Kamphaeng. The lodge Wi-Fi is free and good enough for video calls home.