Bo Sang Handicraft Village (Umbrella Village)

10–15 minutes from the lodge

Bo Sang is the umbrella-making village of San Kamphaeng District, a 10–15 minute drive from Baanpong Lodge in On Tai along local roads past rice paddies and traditional houses. A scooter rented through the lodge is the easy way to get there; a taxi or Grab is quick and cheap. Parking is easy along the main street or at the Umbrella Making Centre. Go in the morning, when it is cooler and there are fewer people.

The Umbrella Making Centre

The main street is hung with open umbrellas and parasols, over the shop fronts and strung across the road, in strong colours and floral patterns. The place smells faintly of mulberry paper, paint and bamboo, with the odd waft from the snack stalls.

At the Bo Sang Umbrella Making Centre you can watch the whole process: bamboo frames shaped by hand, saa (mulberry bark) paper dyed, stretched and glued onto the ribs, then painted freehand with flowers, peacocks, elephants and abstract designs. Many of the families have done this for generations. The artisans were happy to answer questions, and one let me try a brush stroke under supervision.

What there is to buy

Umbrellas and parasols in every size, from cocktail umbrellas to full-size outdoor ones, plus fans and decorative wall pieces. There is also some lacquerware, woven goods and smaller souvenirs. Bring cash.

Timing and photographs

Early morning or late afternoon avoids the strongest sun; by midday it is hot, so carry water and wear comfortable shoes for walking the main strip. Tour groups come through now and then, and mid-week is quieter. The dry season is the brightest time to go. For photographs: the umbrellas hung over the entrance, the artisans in the workshops, and the painted details close up. Standing under the hanging umbrellas, the light comes through the paper in colour.

Hours, fees and facilities

• Opening hours: shops and the Umbrella Making Centre generally open daily from around 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.; some vary.
• Entry fees: none for the village or the centre.
• Facilities: toilets at the centre and the larger shops; small cafés and street vendors selling drinks, fresh fruit and Thai iced tea.
• Nearby: San Kamphaeng’s silk-weaving workshops and cotton factories are on the same route, or you can be back at the lodge’s pool for the afternoon.