Doi Suthep

Getting there from San Kamphaeng

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the temple on the mountain west of Chiang Mai and the city’s best-known landmark. From Baanpong Lodge it is a 45–50 minute drive: Route 1006 west into Chiang Mai, then Route 1004, which winds up the mountain. The road is paved, with gentle bends and a few steeper stretches, and views over the valleys and forest on the way up.

I went on a scooter rented through the lodge, leaving at about 8 a.m. while the air was cool, and it took around 50 minutes. A car, taxi or arranged transfer works just as well. Parking at the base is plentiful and cheap or free, and the way up is clearly signposted.

The Naga stair and the golden chedi

From the bottom, a staircase of 306 steps climbs between two long, multicoloured naga (serpent) balustrades. The steps are steeper than they look, but there are landings to stop on and the view improves as you go. If you would rather not climb, there is a cable car for a small extra charge.

At the top is the golden chedi, said to hold a relic of the Buddha’s shoulder bone, surrounded by halls, Buddha images and prayer areas, with monks and pilgrims going about their business. The terrace looks out over Chiang Mai and the valley to the mountains beyond. That terrace was the part I liked best: early in the morning the sun is on the gold, cloud drifts over the city below, and you can hear chanting from the halls.

Dress, footwear and timing

• Cover shoulders and knees. Sarongs can be borrowed at the temple.
• Wear shoes with grip; the steps are slippery after rain.
• Go between 6 and 9 a.m. for the quietest visit and the best light, or in the late afternoon.
• Take water, sunscreen and a hat.

Hours, fees and facilities

• Opening hours: typically 6:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. daily; check locally, as this can vary.
• Entry fee: around 30–50 THB for foreigners; the cable car is extra, around 50 THB.
• Facilities: clean toilets, and small shops for drinks and snacks at the base and the top; street food stalls outside the entrance.
• Afterwards: there are roadside viewpoints on the way down, and the old city is the obvious place for lunch. You can be back in San Kamphaeng by mid-afternoon.