Doi Ngom

A hard half-day hike, 15–25 minutes away

Doi Ngom is a hill in Mae Takhrai National Park, on the quieter eastern side of Chiang Mai, and one of the harder walks near Baanpong Lodge. It is 15–25 minutes away by scooter, close enough to climb in the morning and spend the afternoon at the lodge pool.

Finding the trailhead

Rent a scooter or ask the lodge to arrange a car or taxi. Head towards San Kamphaeng and on to the trailhead near Huay Lan Reservoir, or one of the other Doi Ngom access points; Google Maps finds them under “Doi Ngom Trail” or “Doi Ngom Summit Loop”. The roads are mostly paved, with some winding rural stretches that get bumpy after rain. Parking near the reservoirs is free. There is no entry fee, though a small donation for trail upkeep is welcome if there is somewhere to leave one.

The climb

The Doi Ngom Summit Loop is around 4–7 km depending on the path you take, and there is a shorter out-and-back. Both are rated hard, with 400–500 metres of climbing, much of it steep, over rocky sections and steps formed by tree roots. The lower trail runs through dense forest: tall trees, hanging vines, birds and insects.

The first steep section is the worst of it. I was out of breath almost from the car park, but once on the ridge the views opened up and there was a breeze. From the open rocky outcrops at the top you look over green hills, the reservoirs below and ridge after ridge towards Lamphun. Some routes pass a small pagoda or shrine at the summit. The outcrops are the place for photographs; lower down, the light through the canopy is worth stopping for.

What to carry, and when to go

At least 1–2 litres of water each, something to eat, proper hiking shoes (it gets slippery), insect repellent and sunscreen. Trekking poles help on the steep parts. Start at sunrise or by mid-morning, before the heat builds. November to February gives the clearest views; in the wet season the roots are slippery. The trail is rarely busy.

Hours, fees and facilities

• Hours: no gates, but walk in daylight only (roughly 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.) and be down before dark.
• Entry fees: free; voluntary donations welcome.
• Facilities: basic parking near the reservoirs and nothing else. There are no toilets or shops at the trailhead, so bring everything you need.
• Afterwards: San Kamphaeng has street food and fresh coconuts, and the hike combines well with a soak at San Kamphaeng Hot Springs or a visit to Mae Kampong village.