Huai Lan Reservoir

Five to ten minutes from the lodge

Huai Lan Reservoir is a large reservoir in the hills of San Kamphaeng District, 5–10 minutes’ drive from Baanpong Lodge in Ontai village. The road is paved and quiet, past rice fields, small farms and Lanna-style houses. A scooter is the easiest way there; a car, taxi or a ride arranged through the lodge works as well. Parking is close to the water and usually free.

The reservoir came out of the royal development projects under King Rama IX, built to meet local water needs, and it still supports fishing and village life around it.

Walking, fishing and camping

The water is calm and ringed by forested hills, which reflect in it on still days; in the rainy season they are often in mist. There are easy walks along the shore and longer forest trails, some looping to Huay Pa Rai Reservoir for 5–11 km with moderate climbing. People fish from the banks and picnic on the grass, and camping on the shore is popular. At weekends you may see locals flying model planes or drones, but it is never crowded and there are no tour buses.

Late afternoon at the dam

I usually go in the late afternoon, when the light softens and the place empties. One evening the water turned orange as the sun went down behind the hills, and I walked along the dam while buffalo grazed by the water’s edge. The dam viewpoint gives the widest view; further down the shore you can photograph the reflections at water level. Early morning is the other good time, for mist and birds. It is close enough to go for an hour before sunset and still be back for a dip in the pool before dark.

What to bring

• Water, snacks and a blanket; there is little to buy.
• Sturdy shoes for the trails, which are uneven and slippery after rain.
• Sunscreen, a hat and insect repellent.
• November to February gives the clearest views; the rainy season brings green hills and heavy clouds.
• Keep back from the water’s edge, respect the camping and fishing areas, and take your rubbish home.

Hours, fees and facilities

• Opening hours: a public area, open daily from dawn to dusk, with no gates.
• Entry fees: usually free; a parking fee of 20–50 baht occasionally applies.
• Facilities: basic toilets near the car park, some shade and a few snack sellers. Come prepared to look after yourself, whether for a picnic or a night’s camping.
• Nearby: Northern Thai food at the roadside stalls on the way back, a soak at San Kamphaeng Hot Springs, or a walk round Pong Huai Lan village.