Crazy Horse Mountain

Climbing Crazy Horse Buttress, the ridge you can see from the lodge

I first noticed it from the veranda at Baanpong Lodge, over morning coffee: a limestone ridge in the distance with the outline of a horse’s head. That is Crazy Horse Buttress, the best-known sport-climbing area in northern Thailand, and it makes a full day out for climbers and a good walk for anyone who just wants to see the rock up close.

Getting there

The crag is in the Mae On area, next door to San Kamphaeng. I went by scooter, through rice paddies and villages and then up winding roads into the limestone hills.

The main roads are good. The last stretch to the parking area is dirt: fine for a scooter or an ordinary car, but slow down after rain. If you would rather not drive, the lodge can arrange a taxi or private transfer, and climbing shops in Chiang Mai run morning shuttles. From the parking at the base, most sectors are a 5–15 minute walk on decent trails. Go early, before the heat and before the popular walls fill up.

There is no entry fee, as it is a natural climbing area, but bring cash for a shuttle, a guidebook or drinks.

The rock and the routes

There are around 150–200 routes spread across more than a dozen sectors, from beginner-friendly 5.6 up to 5.13c. The climbing ranges from technical slabs and vertical faces to steep tufa overhangs and caves, with short warm-ups and some multi-pitch lines.

The best-known sector is the Anxiety State Crisis Cave, an enclosed cave with steep, pumpy routes. The Heart Wall and the main buttress have longer, exposed lines that look out over the valley and the rice fields. The limestone is golden in the sun and photographs well.

A day on the rock, and what to bring

I warmed up on a 5.8 slab, then moved into the caves for the steeper climbing. Climbers from all over the world were there, swapping beta, and the atmosphere was relaxed. Topping out on the main buttress, you can look back towards the lodge.

Bring plenty of water (it is hot and humid), climbing shoes, a harness and quickdraws if you have them, sunscreen, approach shoes for the trails, and a light jacket for cool mornings. November to February is the time to go, when it is dry and mild; in the hot season, stay off the rock in the middle of the day. If you are new to climbing, book a guide through a local shop.

Some sectors have longer approaches or exposed sections, so know your limits and check conditions. The rock is sharp in places. Take all your rubbish out with you.

Practical info

• Opening Hours: No gates; climbable in daylight. Sunrise to late afternoon gives the best light and the coolest temperatures.
• Entry Fees: Free; a guidebook is worth buying.
• Facilities: Parking and trails only, so bring food and water. Villages nearby have simple places for noodles or fresh fruit after the climb.
• Combine with: The hot springs or the handicraft villages in San Kamphaeng, or an evening back at Baanpong Lodge’s pool and restaurant.