Muang On Cave

The Naga staircase

The climb starts at the car park: a staircase of roughly 180–187 steps, its balustrades carved as Naga serpents, as at many Thai temples. It is not steep enough to be hard going, but in the sun it works your legs. Monkeys sometimes watch from the trees, so keep any food in your bag. The view over the valley starts to open up before you reach the top.

Inside the cave

The air inside is cool and damp, which is welcome after the stairs. Lit paths run through chambers of stalactites and stalagmites, some of them so regular they look sculpted.

The main thing to see is the large golden reclining Buddha in one of the main grottos, set against the rough rock. There are smaller shrines through the rest of the cave, with incense and the sound of dripping water.

The climb, and what to bring

The stairs were harder than I expected. I stopped halfway to get my breath back and look at the valley. The cool air at the first chamber made up for it, and I spent a while sitting near the reclining Buddha before heading back down.

Go early, straight after opening, to avoid both the midday heat and any crowds. Wear shoes with good grip, as some steps are uneven, and take water. The lighting covers most of the cave, but a phone torch helps in the dimmer corners; torches can be rented for about 20 THB. If you have the legs for more, the path continues up to Doi Tham Peak, with views across the valley.

Hours, fees and facilities

• Opening hours: usually 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM daily; times vary a little, so check locally.
• Entry: around 30 THB per person, plus a parking fee of 10–20 THB for scooters and cars.
• Facilities: basic toilets at the base and some shade, but no café of any size, so bring snacks or eat nearby.
• Combine it with: San Kamphaeng Hot Springs, a short drive away, for a soak afterwards.

Getting there from the lodge

The cave is under 10 minutes’ drive from Baanpong Lodge (often quoted as five). The climb and the cave take a morning, and you can be back at the lodge’s pool by lunchtime.